This is the home of pesto (traditionally served with trofie, a type of pasta) and focaccia, however, it’s seafood restaurants that ring the old port (many only open at lunchtime); of them we recommend the charming Santa Chiara (via al Capo di Santa Chiara 69, 010 377 0081, closed Sun) on the bay of Boccadasse. For a taste of upmarket classic Genoan cooking, head to Zeffirino (via degli Archi 2, 010 591 990, closed Sun Aug), a favourite of Frank Sinatra who even had a pasta created for him (called paffutelle). Genio (Salita San Leonardo 61, 010 588 463, closed Sun) offers the same kind of dishes but in more rustic surroundings and served with a particularly good house white. For those on a budget, Brera (via di Brera 5, 010 543 280) offers a two-course dinner for less than €10.

Nightlife is concentrated in three areas: behind piazza de Ferrari off via XX Settembre; in Foce, the seafront area past the Fiera International; and around the Lido near passeggiata Anita Garibaldi.

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