The best restaurant in town, and indeed one of the best in Spain, is the Celler de Can Roca (Carretera Taialà 40, 972 222 157, closed Mon, Sun). Located in an unprepossessing suburb just north of the city, it is nonetheless an essential trip for food lovers (you’ll need to book ahead).

In the 19th-century district over the river from the old town is a cluster of Catalan restaurants. Casa Marieta (Plaça de la Independència 5-6, 972 201 016, www.casamarieta.com) is Girona’s oldest, and offers surprisingly good value. Back in the Jewish quarter, La Crêperie Bretonne (C/Cort Reial 14, no phone) transports diners to northern France with Breton crêpes, cider and towering salads. Halfway up a medieval flight of steps nearby is another Francophile delight, Le Bistrot (Pujada Sant Domènec 4, 972 218 803), a gorgeous setting for a cheap (and good) set lunch. Nearby is La Penyora (C/Nou del Teatre 3, 972 218 948), serving more typically Catalan dishes.

For a sedate drink on a balmy evening, try the pavement terraces along the Rambla de la Llibertat, or the Plaça del Vi – both in the old city. For decent tapas, Tapa’t (C/Cort Reial 1, 972 410 794, closed Sun) is nice enough, but El Museu de Vi (C/Cort Reial 4, 972 213 485, closed Mon) across the road is more varied.

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