Moorish-influenced fare abounds in the Albaicín, particularly around C/Elvira. There’s a clutch of exotically decorated teterías (tea rooms) – try cosy Kasbah (C/Calderería Nueva 4, 958 227 936), where you can also get couscous and tagine dishes. You’ll also find a number of kebab/shawarma joints, as well as several upmarket Moorish eateries, such as the excellent Arrayanes (Cuesta Marañas 4, 958 228 401, www.rest-arrayanes.com).

The Moorishness can feel a little contrived and touristy, so for a more authentic Granadine meal, head to one of the tapas bars along C/Navas. Almirez (No.8, 958 228 639) has a particularly original menu, with offerings such as fried squash with quails’ eggs. Near Plaza Bib-Rambla you can get great seafood at the popular Cunini (Plaza Pescadería 14, 958 250 777).

Many of the restaurants around the Mirador de St Nicolás, higher up in the Albaicín, are excellent, and it’s worth the climb up simply for the view of the Alhambra. Try either Huerto de Juan Ranas (C/de Atarazana 8, 958 286 925, www.restaurantejuanranas.com) or Mirador de Aixa (Carril de San Agustín 2, 958 223 616, www.miradordeaixa.com).

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