Sprawling Hamburg is defined by water: three rivers, a system of narrow canals, two lakes (the Inner and Outer Alster) and more than two thousand bridges. To get an initial feel for the place, go on one of the boat tours around the harbour. English-language tours leave daily at noon from the Landungsbrücken (Brücke 1, 313 607).

The city centre lies a short walk north of the Elbe. To get another view of it, climb the tower of the most important of Hamburg’s five main churches, the baroque St Michaelis (Englische Planke 1, 3767 8100). It dates from the 17th century but has since been rebuilt several times. The oldest, the 12th-century St Petri (Mönckebergstrasse, 325 7400), was also rebuilt after a fire. The nearby neo-Renaissance Rathaus (Rathausmarkt 1, 428 310) is filled with opulent halls, enough to make the 45-minute tour worthwhile.

Galleries and museums stretch along what is known as the Kunstmeile, or Art Mile, from the main station to Deichtorstrasse by the Elbe. The most important venue is the Kunsthalle (Glockengiesserwall 5, 428 131 200, www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de, closed Mon), with major artworks, from medieval to modern, as well as a decent contemporary collection in its adjacent Galerie der Gegenwart. The Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe (Steintorplatz 1, 428 134 2732, www.mkg-hamburg.de, closed Mon) has a diverse applied arts collection. Near the Rathaus, the Bucerius Kunst Forum (Rathausmarkt 2, 360 9960, www.buceriuskunstforum.de) hosts excellent temporary exhibitions and has a fine café.

For a taste of Hamburg’s mercantile riches, head for the Chile Haus, between Steinstrasse and Messburg U-Bahn stations just south of the main station. Its exterior was built like the bow of an ocean-going liner by expressionist architect Fritz Höger for a local merchant who made his fortune trading with South America. The other unique local must-see is Hamburg’s fish market, which sets up well before daybreak every Sunday on the Elbe near the Reeperbahn. There’s an auction hall and any number of stallholders in good voice selling eel and all kinds of obscure seafood.

• Tourist information: Hauptbahnhof, Wandelhalle, Bahnhofplatz 1 (Kirchenallee exit, 3005 1300, www.hamburg-tourism.de).