Havana’s hotelscape has changed dramatically since the advent of mass tourism in the early 1990s, but standards are still rarely guaranteed. Of the centrally placed international chain hotels, among the best are the modern but generally efficient Meliá Cohiba (Paseo, entre 1ra y 3ra, +537333636, www.solmelia.com, $225), the landmark Hotel Nacional de Cuba (Calle O, esquina 21, +5378733564, www.gran-caribe.com, $170), both in Vedado, and the ornate French-run Hotel Sevilla (Calle Trocadero 55, entre Martí/Prado y Agramonte, +5378608560, $164) in Centro Habana.

Easily the most interesting hotels in Havana are run by Habaguanex (www.habaguanex.com), the commercial division of the City Historian’s Office. These characterful, historical small hotels in Old Havana have filled the gap in the market for high-quality, original accommodation. The best among them (and probably the best in Cuba) is undoubtedly the exquisite Hotel Santa Isabel (Calle Baratillo 9, entre Obispo y Narciso López (+5378608201, fax +537868391, www.habaguanex.com, $200-$400). Mid-range Hostal Los Frailes (Calle Brasil/Teniente Rey 8, entre Mercaderes y Oficios, +5378629383, $90-$110) also has 22 originally decorated rooms.

Probably the cheapest, and some would say the most enlightening, accommodation in Havana is to take a room in a licensed casa particular (a private home). Look out for the sign with blue and white chevrons saying arrendador inscripto outside, and expect to pay $20-$35 for a double.

Of the city’s budget hotels, Old Havana’s Hostal Valencia (Calle Oficios 53, esquina Obrapía, +5378671037, www.habaguanex.com, $60) and the Hotel Caribbean (Paseo de Martí/Prado 164, esquina Colón, Centro Habana, +5378608233, $48-$56) in Centro Habana are both decent options.

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