Jerez’s famed fortified wine has been exported internationally for hundreds of years and, after a lull in popularity, the ‘tapas effect’ has raised sherry’s profile once again. In its hometown it is drunk as the accompaniment to tapas, and a chilled glass of the pale, dry fino variety is deliciously refreshing on a hot summer afternoon.

To learn just how varied sherry can be, take a tour of the big bodegas in the town centre where the wines are aged and bottled; Pedro Domecq (C/San Ildefonso 3, 956 151 500, www.domecq.es, closed Sun) is a reliable label, while González Byass (C/Manuel María González 12, 956 357 000, www.gonzalezbyass.com) is the maker of Tío Pepe, the world’s bestselling dry sherry. Sample a hazelnutty amontillado, or the treacly, raisin tones of an oloroso, next to barrels that have been signed by many famous visitors over the years.

Aside from sherry, Jerez claims to be the home of flamenco, especially the fast, boisterous bulería style. The city has produced many flamenco stars and retains one of the largest remaining gypsy populations in Andalucía, mostly based in the whitewashed neighbourhoods of Santiago and San Miguel. Santiago is home to the Centro Andaluz de Flamenco (Plaza de San Juan 1, 956 349 265, closed Sat, Sun), a museum, gallery and cinema in one.

Jerez is also renowned for its cartujano ‘dancing’ horses – the famous Andalucían thoroughbreds trained at the Royal Riding School (Real Escuela Andaluz del Arte Ecuestre, Avenida Duque de Abrantes, 956 319 635, www.realescuela.org, shows Thur). The synchronised shows are impressive, but even the training sessions, open to the public, make for a fascinating morning.

Nestling within the remains of its 12th-century Moorish walls, Jerez’s heart and main shopping artery is Calle Larga. This leads south to the streets around Plaza del Arenal, scene of occasional horse races and location of the best tapas bars. Just to the south, the 12th-century Alcázar (Alameda Vieja, 956 326 923) contains a mosque converted into a chapel, which has a beautiful octagonal cupola and a bathhouse with star-shaped skylights. On the third floor of the adjoining 18th-century Palacio de Villavicencio, there’s a camera obscura, with wonderful views of the city. In Plaza del Mercado (also known as Plaza de San Mateo), Jerez’s Municipal Archaeological Museum (956 341 350, closed Mon, Sat) is home to one of the region’s best collections of historical artefacts, dating from Palaeolithic times to the 18th century.

West of here stands the fortress-like Catedral del Salvador (Plaza de la Encarnación, 956 348 482), also known as ‘La Colegiata’. Built on the site of a mosque in the 17th and 18th centuries, it’s a mix of Gothic, Renaissance and baroque.

• Tourist information: Los Claustros, C/Alameda Cristina (956 339 628, www.turismojerez.com).