For spectacular scenery, take the 25-minute bus journey inland to Arcos de la Frontera, one of the more accessible pueblos blancos (white towns). Clinging to the tip of a sheer cliff, it has an idyllic traffic-free centre, with scores of narrow alleys crying out to be explored. El Puerto de Santa María (a 20-minute drive or a short train ride) offers first-rate seafood and is where you can catch a ferry to Cádiz (www.vapordeelpuerto.com). Otherwise, take a boat trip (956 363 813) in the Parque Nacional de Doñana (956 381 635), one of Spain’s most important marine reserves.

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