The tapeo is the main way to eat here and the countless tapas bars are filled with local delicacies such as pork chops braised in oloroso sherry, or marinated artichoke hearts. Jerez’s most famous tapas bars include El Gallo Azul (C/Larga 2, 956 326 148), Bar Juanito (Pescadería Vieja 8-10, 956 334 838) and Cafetería Arenal 15 (Plaza Arenal 15, 956 347 979, closed Sun), although they are always crowded. The tiny Taberna Marinera (Plaza Rafael Rivero 2, 956 334 427) is a little quieter. For a more substantial meal try the stewed bull’s tail at traditional Restaurante Gaitan (C/Gaitan 3-5, 956 345 859, www.restaurantegaitan.com) or the huge platters of barbecued meat and fish at La Carboná (C/San Francisco de Paula 2, 956 347 475, closed Tue). Don’t be deceived by the plain exterior of La Mesa Redonda (C/Manuel de Quintana 3, 956 340 069, closed Sun) – it’s one of the best traditional restaurants in town.

Tourist-oriented flamenco shows can be found nightly (except Sun) at El Lagá de Tío Parrilla (Plaza del Mercado, 956 338 334). Or you can see if there’s a show at one of the authentic peñas (flamenco clubs), such as La Buena Gente (Plaza de San Lucas 9, 956 338 404), Don Antonio Chacón (C/Salas 2, 956 347 472) and Tío José de Paula (C/Merced 11, 956 320 196).

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