Introduction |  |
Whether you read the travel supplements, or bury yourself in backpacker bibles, the chances are if you’re reading about Poland, you’re reading about Krakow. It’s the prettiest of the country’s main cities, largely because, unlike the others, Krakow survived World War II without being blown to smithereens. Despite its popularity as a tourist hotspot, it still manages to retain the sort of old world charisma that has all but disappeared from rival cities such as Prague.
Poland disappeared for centuries under the Habsburg, Prussian and Russian empires, but throughout it all Krakow’s central market square, Rynek Glowny, remained the rallying point for Polish independence. All streets seem to lead here, where, on the north-east corner, flocks of pigeons peck past the fluttering wimples and cassocks of nuns and priests headed to St Mary’s Church, famous for its 15th-century altar by Veit Stoss.
The square is centred on the Sukiennice, a former cloth hall now lined with worthwhile souvenir stands, and surrounded by historic buildings that house restaurants with pavement tables. A walk along busy, store-lined Florianska brings you to the Florianska Gate, a remnant of the 14th-century fortifications and the entrance to the old town from the city’s busy bus and train stations.
At the southern tip of the old town, the castle and Gothic cathedral (422 5155, www.wawel.krakow.pl) dominate Wawel Hill. Both hold fabulous works of art, tapestries and historical treasures. A 15-minute walk south from Wawel brings you to Kazimierz, the old Jewish quarter, once home to a rich culture that was all but destroyed by the Holocaust. The 16th-century Old Synagogue (Szeroka 24, 422 0962) is now the Museum of Jewish History. The area’s resurgence is manifested by the bars and cafés, especially along Szeroka and Estery streets. The Festival of Jewish Culture (last week of June/first week of July) sees a medley of events, ending in a giant street party on Szeroka.
Keeping the city young since 1364 are the students of Jagiellonian University, more than 100,000 of them, largely English-proficient, and always a good lead for finding the city’s (literally) underground parties. The old town’s streets are easy to meander but it’s more adventurous to steal into secluded courtyards and down cellar steps for the hidden bars, restaurants and clubs.
Those searching for something a little more alternative should visit the district of Nowa Huta, further out. Constructed in the 1950s, it is one of only two pre-planned cities in the world built in Socialist-Realist style.
• Tourist information: Rynek Glowny 1/3 (421 7706, www.mcit.pl).
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