Pierogies (like thick ravioli), cabbage and thin beet soup are typical Polish dishes. The Chlopskie Jadlo taverns around town (flagship location on ulica Sw. Jana 3, 429 5157) offer a good A-Z of Polish cuisine at budget prices. Up a bracket is Wierzynek (Rynek Glowny 15, 424 9600), reputed to be the oldest restaurant in the city, and frequently the host of official receptions for visiting heads of state. Szeroka street is home to a long line of Jewish-themed eateries, most of which host live klezmer music in the evening; the pick of the bunch is Klezmer Hois (ulica Szeroka 6, 411 1245).

As befits a tourist destination and student hotbed, Krakow is a drinker’s paradise, with nightlife concentrated around the old town and the Kazimerz area. Venues of note in the old town include the subterranean CK Browar microbrewery (Podwale 6/7, 429 2505) and Cien nightclub on ulica Sw. Jana 15 (enter inside the courtyard). Next door immerse yourself in jazz and the atmosphere of inter-war Paris in the Stalowe Magnolie bar (ulica Sw. Jana 15, 422 8472). Meet the local expats in the trendy Nic Nowego café bar on ulica Sw. Krzyza 15. For something completely different head for Kazimerz where you’ll find arty haunts like Alchemia (ulica Estery 5, 428 4780), Propaganda (ulica Miodowa 20, 292 0622) and Singer (ulica Estery 22, 292 0622) serving boho sorts until late.

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