Introduction |
Who could have guessed that the forgotten Leipzig of yesteryear would be leading the way as one of Germany’s tourist hotspots? A combination of World War II bombing (on account of its strategic rail links) and communist semi-neglect during the East German Republic days (it was here that demonstrations began to bring down the old regime in 1989) had all but relegated this city to the history books. Somehow, though, Leipzig has managed to throw off the shackles of its turbulent 20th-century history to become a stylish regional capital of trade, culture and study, replete with superb art shops and a vibrant music scene.
The beautiful and compact old centre is full of Renaissance and baroque churches, as well as street markets, one of Europe’s oldest universities and a number of ultra-modern buildings. At the beginning of the 20th century Leipzig was a trade fair city, and the shops and markets were arranged in interconnecting ‘passages’ that facilitated trade. Many of these have now been restored to their former glory – Mädler Passage and Barthels are two of the best.
One of Leipzig’s main attractions is the restored Gothic Thomaskirche (Thomaskirchhof 18, off Marktplatz, 2124 681, www.thomaskirche.org), where Johann Sebastian Bach served as cantor. It holds the great composer’s sarcophagus. For classical music buffs, the adjacent Bach Museum (913 7200, www.bach-leipzig.de) holds some of his original manuscripts. Altes Rathaus (Markt 1, 965 130), the old city hall dating from the 16th century, overlooking the medieval Renaissance Markt, houses the extensive Stadtgeschichtliches Museum, dedicated to historical exhibitions about the city. Leipzig’s must-see is, however, the Museum in der Runden Ecke (Dittrichring 24, 961 2443, www.runde-ecke-leipzig.de). This building used to be the Stasi headquarters; now it houses a chilling collection of exhibits from GDR days.
Despite numerous delays, the Museum der Bildenden Künste (Katherinenstrasse 10, 216 990, www.mdbk.de), with its futuristic glass-fronted building, has finally opened. It houses a collection of works by Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens, plus 20th-century collections including that of communist politico Georgi Dimitrov, blamed by Hitler for the burning of the Reichstag.
The Zoologischer Garten Leipzig (Pfaffendorfer Strasse 29, 593 3385, www.zoo-leipzig.de), a 19th-century zoo – has state of the art cages allowing animals to live in their ‘natural’ habitat.
• Tourist information: Richard-Wagner-Strasse 1 (7104 260, www.leipzig.de).
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