Traditional Saxon cuisine (shnitzel, dumplings, roast pork) is served at one of the city’s most famous landmarks – Auerbachs Keller (Mädler-Passage, Grimmaische Strasse 2-4, 216 100, www.auerbachs-keller-leipzig.de), originally a beer hall dating back to 1538. Germany’s literary giant Goethe used to drink here and used it as the setting for the scene where Faust dines with the devil.

The young and trendy eat at Spizz (Markt 9, 960 80 43), great for cocktails and light fare at very reasonable prices; there are often jazz bands on weekends. Leipzig has a large university bang in the middle of town, and many of its students head for Moritzbastei (Universitätsstrasse 9, 702 590, www.moritzbastei.de), a mini complex with a bar, restaurant and a small live music venue.

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