Flemish taverns typify the local dining scene, and you can get attractive lunchtime deals on moules-frites. For something a little more adventurous, the landmark Alcide (5 rue Debris St-Etienne, 03 20 12 06 95, closed Sun dinner) has oysters or Flemish meat stews. The equally stylish L’Écume des Mers (10 rue de Pas, 03 20 54 95 40) specialises in seafood, while for location and ambience, head for the upstairs dining room at L’Houblonnière (42 place du Général de Gaulle, 03 20 74 54 34).

Most bars offer full menus twice a day. Establishments can be wacky and arty (Maison du Moulin d’Or, 31-33 place du Théâtre, 03 20 55 00 10; L’Illustration, 18 rue Royale, 03 20 12 00 90) or unpretentiously local, such as the cosy Le Vinci (70 rue de l’Hôpital Militaire, 03 20 57 36 60).

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