The Pestana Palace (Rua Jau 54, 213 615 600, www.pestana.com, €150-€300) is a real stunner. The smaller Solar do Castelo (Rua das Cozinhas 2, 218 806 050, www.heritage.pt, €182-€290) and Solar dos Mouros (Rua do Milagre de Santo António 6, 218 854 940, www.solardosmouros.pt, €136-€240) offer upmarket comfort near the castle. Across town, some of the rooms at the Lisboa Regency Chiado (Rua Nova de Almada 114, 213 256 100, €170-€220) come with castle views.

Mid-market pensões cluster in Baixa: Residencial Duas Nações (Rua da Vitória 41, 213 460 710, €30-€60) and Pensão Praça da Figueira (Travessa Nova de São Domingo 9, 3E, 213 424 323, €25-€45) are recommended. Uphill, Pensão Residencial Ninho das �guias (Costa do Castelo 74, 218 854 070, €30-€50) has better views.

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