As the temperatures soar, the traditional gutsy stews and suckling pig begin to run just a little bit short of the mark, but nary a salad steps in to take their place. Three cheers, then, for tapas. The streets around plazas Santa Ana and Mayor all but bristle with old-school bars where you can pick at plates of squid, tortilla, olives and patatas bravas while complaining about the heat.

For something a little more nouvelle, head up to the newly gentrified Chueca neighbourhood, and find Azul Profundo (Plaza de Chueca 8, 91 532 25 64, closed Mon, Sun & Aug), or Café Oliver (C/Almirante 12, 91 521 73 79). If it’s seafood you’re after, look no further than the bustling Ribeira Do Miño (C/Santa Brigida 1, 91 521 98 54, closed Mon & Aug). For some modern fare Zaranda (San Bernardino 13, 91 541 20 26/ www.zaranda.es) is well worth a visit.

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