Málaga’s signature dish is the fritura malagueña, a huge pile of golden fried fish and squid, and a good place to try it is in the C/Comisario, a narrow alleyway off the Alameda Principal. Restaurant Casa Vicente (C/Comisario 1, 952 225 397) is particularly good. But if you get bored of fish, there’s no shortage of tapas bars peppered across town. C/Strachan, off the main square, is lined with them; Gorki (No.6, 952 221 466) is one of the best, and very popular with locals. Or try nearby La Rebaná (C/Molina Lario 4, 952 608 534). More upmarket options include La Casa del Angel (C/Madre de Dios 29, 952 608 750) – also an art gallery (www.lacasadelangel.com) – and Michelin-starred Café de Paris (C/Vélez Málaga 8, 952 225 043).

The distinction between restaurants and bars is blurred – most places serve food and stay open late serving drinks in the evening. It’s worth checking out the Bodegas el Pimpi (C/Granada 62, 952 228 990), a classic drinking den housed in a 200-year-old ex-convent.

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