The colonial-historical Manila Hotel (1 Rizal Park, Ermita, +6325270011, US$200-$350) is a tourist attraction in its own right. You'd pay much more back home for the kind of opulence you get at Makati Shangri-La (Ayala Avenue at Makati Ave, Makati, +6328138888, US$270-400). Despite how often you hear travel agents throwing the term around, Manila hasn't quite yet been able to get its finger on the 'boutique hotel' pulse. But the Adriatico Arms (561 J Nakpil Street, Malate, +6325210736, P1500-1800) comes pretty close, with bonus points for its unbeatable location.

Of the budget guesthouses clustered around Ermita and Malate, the comfortable Malate Pensionne (1771 M Adriatico Street, Malate, +6325226624, www.mpensionne.com, P200-1050) probably gets the most repeat visitors.

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