La Caravelle (34 quai du Port, 04 91 90 36 64) is a (pricey) boho cocktail bar and jazz club. On the quayside, raffish Bar de la Marine (15 quai de Rive Neuve, 04 91 54 95 42) attracts a diverse set. There are also many bars around St Julien, off rue de Rome and place de Préfecture.

Marseille has a dynamic music and club scene. The sprawling Trolleybus (24 quai Rive Neuve, 04 91 54 30 45, www.letrolley.com) hosts a variety of club nights, while L’Intermédiaire (63 place Jean-Jaurès, 04 91 47 01 25) has jazz and blues. To sample the city’s renowned hip hop scene, head to L’Affranchi (212 boulevard St-Marcel, 04 91 35 09 19). New Cancan (3 rue Senac-de-Meilhan, 04 91 48 59 76) is the city’s largest gay club.

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