Weekenders beware, many Milanese restaurants, geared to the business traveller, close at the weekend. For instance, the good traditional Italian food at La Latteria (via San Marco 22-24, 02 659 7653) is only on offer during the working week. The best of Piedmont meets local Milanese cuisine at Masuelli San Marco (viale Umbria 80, 02 5518 4138, www.masuelli-trattoria.com, closed Sun). Al Merluzzo Felice (via Lazzaro Papi 6, 02 545 4711, closed Sun) is your best stop for Sicilian fish dishes, while Osteria Giulio Pane e Ojo (via Muratori 10, 02 545 6189, closed Sun) serves Roman favourites. For pizza there’s Anema e Cozze (via Palermo 15, 02 8646 1646), Primafila (via Ugo Foscolo 1, 02 862020) and Pizzeria Dogana (via Dogana 3, 02 8056766). Nabucco (via Fiori Chiari 10, 02 860663) is open every day, and also serves until 11.30pm – a rare thing in Milan.

The ‘happy hour’ concept has become popular, usually with drinks at €5 and a self-service buffet. Try Bar Brera (via Brera 23), the Dom Café (Corso Como 5) or Le Biciclette (via Conca del Naviglio 10). Bars are plentiful in the via De Amicis/Colonne di San Lorenzo area.

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