Montpellier’s gastronomic high point is the Pourcel twins’ pricey, Michelin-starred Jardin des Sens (11 avenue St-Lazare, 04 99 58 38 38, www.jardindessens.com, closed Mon, Tue, Sun). From 14th-century vaults, Régis Brasserie (3 place Jean Jaurès, 04 67 60 53 95) – the place for seafood – spills out on to a trendy square. La Brasserie du Théâtre (22 boulevard Victor Hugo, 04 67 58 88 80, www.brasseriedutheatre.com) is very much the stage door restaurant for the opera across the way, and has star-spotting potential. Grand Café Riche (No.8, 04 67 54 71 44), in a plum location on place de la Comédie, has been the essential pavement terrace for people-watching for over 100 years. There is, however, a snazzy newcomer on the square; Welcomedia (04 67 02 82 65) is a sleek bar-bistro. Note that many bars in Montpellier have developed a talent for tapas, and a selection can be found in the back streets behind place Jean-Jaurès.

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