The rapidly changing restaurant scene offers a wide range of cuisine. Try Yar (Leningradsky pr, 32/2, 960 2004) for a perfect mix of old Russian and classical French recipes. Designed in the style of an aristocratic 18th-century saloon, Pushkin (Tverskoy boulevard 26, 229 5590/9411) attracts both bankers and art lovers. Stylish Ketama (Bolshaya Dmitrovka street 5/6, building 5, 262 9268) offers Moroccan delicacies 24 hours a day.

Of the beer restaurants, each offering their own beers, try Durdin (Bolshaya Polyanka street 56, 953 5200); Glavpivtorg (Bolshaya Lubyanka street 5, 928 2591), with the atmosphere of a Russian Ministry; Olhoff (Bolshoy Putinkovsky per 5, 299 2228), a light wooden place with bands playing and sports on the screens; and Jiguli (Novy Arbat street 11, 291 4144), a trendy joint with modern snacks.

When it comes to local pubs, Propaganda (Bolshoy Zlatoustinsky per 7, 924 5732) and the Real McCoy (Kudrinskaya square 1, 255 4144) are both good. Milk & Honey (Myasnitskaya street 38, 921 3278) is stylish. Nearby, Shanty (Myasnitsky proezd 2/1, 783 6868) has both Vietnamese and Thai food and ancient Tibetan art.

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