Outside the top hotels, the finest restaurant in town is probably the French Alan Bobbe's Bistro (Cianda House, Koinange Street, +25420224945, Sat dinner only, Sun closed). Tamarind, National Bank of Kenya (Harambee Ave, +25420338959, www.tamarind.co.ke) flies mouthwatering seafood up from the coast daily. Carnivore (Langata Road, near the National Park Gate, +25420602764, www.carnivore.co.ke) lives up to its name with vast quantities of barbecued meat, including game, with vegetarian options for the squeamish, and plenty of entertainment.

For a quick bite, head for the famous Thorn Tree Café, Stanley Hotel (Kimathi Street, +25420228830), which has had a travellers’ message board since the 1960s, or Trattoria (corner of Wabera and Kaunda Streets, +25420240205), which does excellent pizzas and icecream.

The best place for people-watching colonial-style over a cold beer is the Lord Delamere Terrace bar at the Norfolk Hotel (Harry Thuku Road, +25420250900).