Introduction |  |
Nantes regularly tops ‘quality of life’ surveys as the best city in France in which to live. Considering the competition, that’s quite an achievement. It probably has something to do with the fact that the sixth-largest city in the country is full of parks, has beautiful cobbled streets and runs like a Swiss watch. Not only that, it has great museums, a thriving arts scene and a large student population to keep the place on its toes.
An important 18th-century trading port, Nantes occupies a prime position at the junction of the Loire, Erdre and Sèvre rivers. Commerce has taken its toll in recent years, however, and office blocks conceal much of the riverfront; historic buildings are dwarfed by the unsightly Tour de Bretagne; and channels and tributaries have been paved over.
But don’t let that put you off. Presiding over the city centre is the beautiful Château des Ducs de Bretagne (4 place Marc Elder, 02 51 17 49 00), although it’s closed until the end of 2006. The beautifully restored Gothic Cathédrale St-Pierre St-Paul is just north of the chateau.
Behind the Chapelle de l’Oratoire and across the square is the Musée des Beaux-Arts (10 rue Georges Clemenceau, 02 51 17 45 00, closed Tue), whose permanent collection includes paintings by Georges de la Tour, Ingres and Courbet (and for three months of every year, it also houses visiting works from the Louvre). Slightly east, the immaculately tended Jardin des Plantes (02 40 41 90 09, www.jardins.nantes.fr) is worth a stroll. Across the railway tracks, the old LU biscuit factory houses Le Lieu Unique (quai Ferdinand Favre, 02 40 12 14 34, www.lelieuunique.com), a contemporary arts centre with a cool restaurant and bar. The tower offers panoramic views of the city. The new Palais de Justice law courts (Ile de Nantes), designed by architect Jean Nouvel to represent ‘modern justice’, have gone a long way towards improving the modern architectural contribution to the skyline.
The cours des 50 Otages, where the Germans held 50 French people hostage during World War II, roughly separates the pedestrianised medieval quartier Bouffay, just west of the cathedral, from the 18th- and 19th-century area around the place du Commerce. The fine, semicircular place Graslin contains the recently renovated, neo-classical opera house (02 40 69 77 18).
Most big designer names, and local fashion labels such as Biche de Bere (24 rue de la Fosse, 02 40 89 59 90), can be found around rue Crébillon. The extraordinary Passage Pommeraye is a three-level, 19th-century arcade linking lofty rue Crébillon with the place du Commerce below. The lavish interior of traditional chocolatier Gautier Debotté (9 rue de la Fosse, 02 40 48 23 19) has been classed as a national monument.
• Tourist information: 3 cours Olivier de Clisson (08 92 46 40 44, www.nantes-tourisme.com).
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