The tiny but frenetic Superfly (No.12, 347 127 2178, closed Mon & June-Sept) on via Cisterna dell’Olio lies on a crowded street that testifies to the city’s sociability. The bars in piazza Bellini – including Intra Moenia (No.70, 081 290 720, www.intramoenia.it) – are where the city’s beautiful people hang out.

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