To try pizza in its pure Neapolitan state, go to Da Michele (via Cesare Sersale 1, 081 553 9204, closed Sun) or Sorbillo (via dei Tribunali 32, 081 446 643, closed Sun). Otherwise, Culti (via Carlo Poerio 47, 081 764 4619) is an intruiging furniture shop/cafè, and La Stanza del Gusto (vicoletto Sant’Arpino 21, 081 401 578 or 348 339 6161, closed Sun) is more stylish. For traditional Neapolitan home cooking, head to Cantina della Tofa (vico della Tofa 71, 081 406 840, closed Sun) or La Vecchia Cantina (via San Nicola alla Carità 13-14, 081 552 0226, closed Tue and Sun night). For the true – and strong – caffè napoletano visit Bar Mexico (piazza Dante 86, 081 549 9330, closed Sun) or Bar Cimmino (via Filangieri 12-13, 081 418 303). For aperitivi, genteel Gambrinus (via Chiaia 1-2, 081 417 582) is the most famous café in town.

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