High above Nice, 12 miles away, stand stone villages steeped in the rustic ambience of old Provence. The most developed is St-Paul: Matisse, Chagall and Picasso were drawn to its light. Penniless and unknown, they paid at the inn, La Colombe d’Or, in paintings. Vence was also a popular stop, and an elderly Matisse designed the stunning Chapelle de la Rosaire. For gastronomy, head to Mougins for the fine Edmond (7 avenue de l’Église, 04 92 92 15 31).

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