The local cuisine has a Provençal and Italian heritage; specialities include pissaladière (savoury tart with onions, anchovies, black olives), socca (pancake made with chickpea flour) and stockfissa (garlicky salt-cod stew). Chez Theresa (cours Saleya, 04 93 85 00 04, closed Mon) is one of the best places to try socca. Le Karr (10 rue Alphonse Karr, 04 93 82 18 31) is a bar-restaurant that offers a modern take on traditional cuisine. Côté Sud (2 rue Professeur-Sureau, 04 93 01 36 40, closed Sun) is open all day for simple but extremely well prepared dishes.

Kitsch brasserie La Rotonde (at the Hotel Negresco, see below) serves three courses for around €30, while Brasserie Flo (4 rue Sacha Guitry, 04 93 13 38 38) lays on good Provençal food in an old theatre. La Table Alziari (4 rue François Zanin, 04 93 80 34 03) also serves specialities from the region, including stuffed vegetables and pasta with pesto. La Claire Fontaine (place Rossetti, 04 93 62 30 94) is located a pretty piazza. L’Embarcadère (13 cours Saleya, 04 93 62 30 38) is a popular and reliable fish restaurant with a thoroughly reasonable set menu.