Close to the borders with Hungary and Serbia, Osijek is the regional centre of Slavonia. Known for its wine, its river fish and its endless cornfields, this unsung corner of what locals refer to as Continental Croatia, inland from the celebrated coast, has been marked by centuries of conflict and invasion. The most recent following the break-up of Yugoslavia in 1991-92 scarred much of Slavonia. Central Osijek avoided heavy destruction, although it was on the frontline.

Nearly two decades on, Slavonia's capital is a peaceful, relaxing, pleasant place to spend a few days. It was founded on the ruins of the Roman town of Mursa, at a strategic location on the right bank of the Drava, close to its confluence with the Danube. Osijek thrived in medieval times, but was destroyed by Ottoman soldiers in 1526. Under Turkish rule, the city was redone in oriental style. In 1687, it was occupied by Habsburg forces, who built a fortress, and erased all architectural remains of the Ottoman presence.

The Tvrdja fortress complex was the heart of the town during its 18th-century revival. Its Holy Trinity Square was bounded to the north by the imposing Military Command and to the east by the Magistrates' Office, now the Museum of Slavonia (Trg svetog trojstva 6, 031 250 730; admission 15kn), housing a motley collection of local oddities.

Europska avenija is a wide, tree-lined boulevard in the style of the Habsburg era and contains a number of well-preserved art nouveau townhouses - particularly nos.12 and 22. Over the road is the Osijek Art Gallery (Galerija likovnih umjetnosti, Europska avenija 9, 031 251 280; open Tue-Sun; admission 10kn), which boasts a fine collection of the work of Adolf Waldinger (1843-1904), who died penniless and is now generally considered one of Slavonia's greatest landscape painters.

The centre of the Upper Town is Trg Ante Starcevica, a pleasant square criss-crossed by tram lines, full of shops and cafés, and marked by the huge tower of Church of St Peter & St Paul (known locally as the Cathedral). Other architectural highlights include the Moorish-style Croatian National Theatre on Zupanijska ulica, built in 1866, and the baroque Church of St James (1727) on Kapucinska. There's a pleasant riverside promenade that leads to the Tvrdja citadel, and a dramatic pedestrian suspension bridge over the Drava. On the other side of the river the main attractions are Osijek zoo and the Copacabana recreational centre, with swimming pools and a sandy beach.

• Tourist information: Osijek Tourist Board Zupanijska 2 (031 203 755/www.tzosijek.hr). Open Summer 7am-8pm Mon-Fri; 8am-noon Sat, Sun. Winter 7am-4pm Mon-Fri; 8am-noon Sat.