Karl Johans Gate runs through the heart of Oslo, uniting the many aspects of the city. At one end lies the Royal Palace and, at the other, the main railway station and commercial district. In between are the imposing old university, the National Theatre (Johanne Dybwads Plass 1, 22 00 14 00, www.nationaltheatret.no) and the 17th-century cathedral (Karl Johans Gate 11, 23 31 46 00). Nearby, the National Gallery (Kristian Augusts Gate 23, 21 98 20 00, www.nasjonalgalleriet.no) has on display an excellent collection of Norwegian art.

Many head for the Edvard Munch Museum (Tøyengata 53, 23 49 35 00, www.munch.museum.no, closed Mon Sept-May), with thousands of works by Norway’s most renowned artist. In a fine example of locking doors behind bolting horses, the security has been beefed up, while The Scream, stolen in 2004, remains missing. The Vigeland Sculpture Park (main entrance on Kirkeveien, www.museumsnett.no/vigelandmuseet) remains one of the city’s greatest draws, while the thought-provoking Nobel Peace Centre (Brynjulf Bulls Plass 1, 48 30 10 00, www.nobelpeaceceter.org) is one of the newest and most significant attractions.

The best museums are found on the Bygdøy peninsula, reached by bus (No.30 from the station) or by ferry from the jetty behind the Rådhus (Town Hall). Here the superb Viking Ships Museum (Vikingskipshuset, Huk Aveny 35, 22 13 52 80, www.khm.uio.no) has, as you might expect, the world’s finest collection of Viking boats, with three magnificent originals on display. In nearby Bygdøynesveien, the maritime theme continues at the Kon-Tiki (23 08 67 67, www.kon-tiki.no) and the Fram Museum (23 28 29 50, www.fram.museum.no), which relate to two of Norway’s great seafarers Thor Heyerdahl and Roald Amundsen. The peninsula also contains the excellent Folk Museum (22 12 37 00, www.norskfolkemuseum.no), with its displays of traditional buildings, crafts and costumes.

• Tourist information: Fridtjof Nansens Plass 5 (24 14 77 00, www.visitoslo.com).