Introduction |  |
There are two wildly different Mallorcas; one which delights the bucket-and-spade-wielding, Union Jack-waving masses, and one that has served as a playground for the rich and famous since the island’s 1930s heyday. Despite the thousands that pass through its airport every day, Palma belongs very definitely to the latter, with a stylish array of boutique hotels and high-class restaurants gracing its beautifully preserved medieval buildings.
A busy, working city, Palma is home to over half the island’s population. Its importance stems from its port, as you can learn at the excellent Museu de Mallorca (C/Portella 5, 971 717 540, closed Mon), which traces the island’s history.
Cruise ships docked in the port are dwarfed by the mighty cathedral (Plaça de l’Almoina s/n, 971 723 130, closed Sun), hunched menacingly on the shoreline. Behind the fortress-like exterior, the soaring Gothic nave restored by Antoni Gaudí is illuminated by one of the largest stained-glass rose windows in the world. The church was built in the 13th century on the site of a mosque – the Moors ruled Mallorca for 400 years, and the Islamic seat of power, El Palau de l’Almudaina (C/Palau Reial s/n, 971 214 134, closed Sun), still stands next door. Just to the west, Sa Llotja (Plaça Llotja, 971 711 705, open during temporary exhibitions) is a 15th-century merchants’ exchange. It gave its name to Palma’s historic quarter, where narrow streets teem with shops, bars and restaurants opening out on to leafy squares.
Contemporary art lovers are well catered for by two grand new public exhibition spaces, the Palau March (Palau Reial 18, 971 711 122, www.fundbmarch.es, closed Sun), featuring the work of such international sculptors as Rodin and Henry Moore, and the Es Baluard museum of modern Spanish art (Plaça Porta de Santa Catalina s/n, 971 908 200, www.esbaluard.org, closed Mon). The latter, housed in a 16th-century Renaissance fortress, contains works by Picasso and Miró, among others, with some excellent temporary exhibitions. Miró’s former home, a few miles south-west of the centre, forms part of the Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró (C/Joan de Saridakis 29, 971 701 420, www.a-palma.es/fpjmiro, closed Mon), which is filled with his works.
For unbeatable views over the city, visit the circular Castell de Bellver, which also contains the city-history museum (C/Camilo José Cela s/n, 971 730 657, museum closed Sun), just outside the centre.
• Tourist information: Casal Solleric, Passeig d’es Born 27 (971 729 634, www.palmademallorca.es); there’s a branch at the airport.
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