Prague

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Restaurants and bars

Culinary historians, take note: 2006 was the year when Prague dining became a treat. Until now the experience of going out to eat was better described as an adventure – one complete with thrills and chills. It‘s still not reliably smooth or relaxing, of course; no venture across the former Iron Curtain in search of pleasant victuals is likely to be that for some time. But the hungry of Prague these days will, as a rule, find themselves noticed, seated, given a menu and charmed by what they see on it.

The city’s chefs and servers are visibly growing in confidence, while eating environs are becoming more distinctive. Check out La Scene, Mozaika, or Monarch for fine examples of places that make you feel both hungry and sexy the moment you walk in.

If you consider that ‘style’ is a distillation of a multitude of cultures and influences, it’s worth remembering that the Czech Republic was essentially deprived of both until the last decade. Now at last, with the arrival of curious foreigners and returning emigrés, the result in Prague’s restaurants and bars is a combination of fresh tastes, less pretence and decent service. Meanwhile, Prague still offers solid values and, even in the places that haven’t been newly made over in ochres and reds, with strategic lighting, a collection of incredible settings.

From characterful neglected mansions like Palffy Palác to even the updated antique-style brewery restaurants like Kolkovna (p104) and Celnice, you dine these days steeped in Bohemian atmosphere and old world locations.

 

It’s not that pizza served with ketchup has been forever banished, nor have the city’s famously negligent servers all suddenly snapped to attention (and learned to enjoy themselves a bit). It’s more like a momentum shift, led by eateries that combine the best of hearty Czech fare, like game, stewed meats, dumplings, sauerkraut and heavy sauces with lighter, modernised fare. Take the hip and fun-loving Cowboys, for example, the latest project of established Prague restaurateur and hipster Nils Jebens. Or the lovely roast duck, eaten riverside al fresco at the Kampa Museum. All these add to beachheads already established recently, like the wood-fired Neapolitan pies at Hergetova Cihelna (p79) or fiery Thai at tiny Siam Orchid.

 

Then, of course, there’s the classic, utterly unchanged neighbourhood pub, invariably serving pork knuckle, schnitzel (known here as ¡ízek), beef in cream sauce (sví±kova), and endless cheap half-litres of Pilsner beer. These places are a working-class treat to be savoured, where you sit at communal tables, smoke sometimes hangs heavy in the air, and your waiter, after working a traditional 12-hour shift, looks about to pass out. Be forewarned that most of these officially close their kitchens at 10pm and may well tell you from 9pm that no more food’s available.

 

It’s a blast from the past in a country where the communists were recently polling at near 20 per cent around election time. Frankly this kind of old-school hospoda or hostinec is a national cultural treasure – and one that looks set to outlive the wave of absurdly haughty designer showcases of recent years. Especially the ones specialising in Plexiglass furnishings, swarms of smarmy waiters and tiny dinners presented à la Jackson Pollock – who came to Prague for that?

 

A few genuine gems at the high end have proven their staying power with elegant, imaginative gusto, such as Aromi, Opera Garden, the Four Season’s Allegro, the beloved French Le Bistrot de Marlène, and the wine bar Le Terroir. Prague’s venturesome expat community has further enriched the mix with satisfying brunches, bagel shops, and Sonoran Mexican food, at places like Radost FX, the ever-popular Bohemia Bagel and Picante, a cheap, all-night fast food joint that nevertheless serves the best Mexican in town. Even vegetarians in this meat-loving town will find reasonable options at Himalaya, Country Life and Radost FX. Otherwise there’s always sma∆en≈ s≈r, the fried cheese served at most pubs; (vegetarians, watch they don’t slip some ham (∫unka) in.)

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