Prague

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Shopping tips and trends

Shopping in Prague is still enough of an adventure to provide that frisson of the ’recently Cold War state shop‘ experience. Although you can find just about anything you need at just about any time during traditional hours, you‘re still bound to encounter clerks who telegraph their ennui so effectively that it‘s easy to lose the will to live yourself (or so it seems if your quest takes you to more than two places).

Garnets & amber
Every jeweller worth his weight in carats offers them in Prague, but those with distinctive settings are the ones worth noting. Garnets and amber are impossible to miss among the crystal and nesting dolls that line the tourist shops. The city of Turnov, in North Bohemia, is garnet central, where the original, and true Bohemian garnets hail from. This stone is celebrated for its fiery red colour and its light reflecting ability. Its supposed curative effects include the ability to overcome sorrow, bring vitality and feelings of joy to the wearer. The fashion dates back at least to the Renaissance days of Emperor Rudolf II, who counted many garnet-encrusted pieces among his collection, as did Russian tsarinas in the 1800s, who used them to decorate their dresses.

Art Cooperative Granát, a production facility in Turnov, produces 3,500 different designs, and employs master craftspeople to create new ones every year. They come set in gold-plated silver, sterling silver, 14- or 18-carat gold. The Granát facility is the only legal mining operator in the country so always ask for a manufacturer’s certificate. True Bohemian garnets are also marked with G, G1 or G2.

As for the Baltic’s signature stone – amber – it’s not a mineral at all but prehistoric tree resin. Called the gold of the north, amber dates back to Neolithic times when it served as a symbol of the sun. Egyptians used to put it in their tombs as a preservative, while Roman women held it in their hands, hoping for eternal youth.

It also has certain healing properties, being believed to fight depression, promote joy and healing. Again, fakes abound in the many shops scattered around town so remember: real amber floats, like a bar of soap, when placed in salt water. Glass and plastic are the most common fakes, but amber is warmer to the touch.

 

For other uniquely Czech gifts, consider marionettes, crystal and wooden toys. All make great mementos, especially the handcrafted playthings for kids.

For book lovers, the city abounds with antikvariáts, fusty places always chock-full of interesting old Czech tomes, ornate bibles, photos, maps, magazines and postcards. Bazars, as secondhand shops are known, are everywhere, and fun for a giggle too. For native crafts with local colour, try Manufaktura – at first sight, it looks touristy, and is in prime tourist locations (including the airport, in case you’ve forgotten someone), but it’s worth a second look for natural soaps, herbal essences and old-fashioned homewares. Botanicus is another specialist in Czech-made organic stuffs from soaps and shampoos to cooking oils and candles. Art is another excellent buy, and it needn’t be from a vendor on Charles Bridge. Many galleries scattered around the city offer serious bargains on one-of-a-kind items, as do museum gift shops like those in Prague Castle or the National Gallery.

And, of course, never underestimate the power of Czech alcohol. A liqueur like Becherovka, bitters like Fernet, plum brandy like Slivovice or a beer like the beloved Pilsner Urquell will keep the warm Prague memories flowing.

Shopping areas
As is typical in most cities, avoid the central shopping areas unless you’re rushed or need classic souvenirs. This especially applies to Hrad±any and the area around Prague Castle. Staré Mêsto is a little better, especially as you drift towards Nové Mêsto, and back streets contain rewarding secondhand junk and book shops. High fashion and high prices can be found on Pa¡í∆ská, which you should hit on a sunny day for its tree-lined sidewalks and inviting outdoor cafés. Mall central, as well as many other chain stores can be found along Na p¡íkopê.

Wenceslas Square can pretty much be skipped for shopping – nothing unique, but some old standbys if you’re looking for crystal. The streets on either side of Wenceslas Square are great for a wander, however, especially the further out you go. Beware of some shady characters, however, especially at night. Souvenir seekers should troll through any of the streets leading out from Old Town Square, as well as the Malá Strana area near Charles Bridge. Moving further out to Karlín and Hole∫ovice will reward antique junkies, but just about every neighbourhood boasts a hidden surprise or two.

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