Icelanders are a resourceful bunch. They’ve had to be, seeing that they’re basically stuck on a volcano in the middle of the Atlantic. If you visit during the winter months when traditional foods are celebrated, expect animals that other countries leave behind to appear regularly on the menu: rotten shark meat, sheep’s testicles and rotten skate, to name but a few.

But today, these pungent treats are the exception, not the rule, and Reykjavík offers an increasingly international selection of restaurants. Head downtown to Laugavegur and Hverisgata, and you will find everything from reindeer to Icelandic tapas.

Try Einar Ben (Veltusund 1, www.einarben.is, 511-5090), a very plush traditional restaurant serving fish, seabirds – that’ll be puffin – and game, for a fine Icelandic feast. Possibly the most acclaimed restaurant in Reykjavík is Siggi Hall (Thorsgata 1, 511 6677, www.siggihall.is), a stylish restaurant serving Icelandic food with a modern twist, such as organic Icelandic lamb with blueberries and wild thyme. Apotek (Austurstraeti 16, 575 7900, www.veitingar.is) is a trendy white-on-white bar-restaurant with a reliable menu, while locals swear by the outstanding seafood and game served at the Seafood Cellar (Adalstraeti 2, 511 1212, www.sjavarkjallarinn.is).

For bar snacks, try the fusion tapas at newcomer b5 (Bankastraeti 5, 552 9600, www.b5.is) or the more laid-back Kaffi Brennslan (Postshusstraeti 9, 561 3600, www.brennslan.is), which serves wonderfully hearty grills and sandwiches at decent prices.

If you’ve got the stamina, join a runtur to experience a long night on the town. People taking the marathon pub crawl can usually be spotted snaking from bar to bar. Beer was illegal in Iceland until 1989, but the country has made up for it since – Iceland even celebrates Beer Day every 1 March – despite the fact that a large glass of the stuff can set you back as much as £5. Prepare for an expensive night.

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