Introduction |  |
The medieval wonders of Riga’s old town Vecriga, and its beautiful early 20th-century art nouveau districts, point to the city’s former importance and prosperity. These days the Latvian capital is busily recapturing this status, having rapidly emerged from the stagnation of 50 years of communist rule. The vibrant nightlife and burgeoning tourist trade are matched by a similar transformation in Riga’s economic fortunes, and a city that grew rich on the trade in honey, amber, wax and timber is once again looking to the future with optimism.
With a population of 800,000, Riga is the largest and most cosmopolitan city in the Baltic states. The city grew rich as a major Hanseatic trading port, with commercial interests stretching all the way to the West Indies. But wealth breeds envy and over its 800-year history Russians, Germans, Swedes and Poles have all fought for control of the city. Even today Latvians remain in a minority in Riga, outnumbered by ethnic Russians.
Central Ratslaukums (Town Hall Square) reflects Riga’s turbulent past perfectly: atop the impressive red-brick and gilded façade of the House of Blacksmiths, the words ‘Anno 1334-Renov 1999’ hint at the building’s history. The original medieval structure was damaged in the war, destroyed by the Soviets and rebuilt in time for Riga’s 800th anniversary in 2001. Next door is the well-presented Occupation Museum (Strelnieku laukums 1, 721 2715), www.occupationmuseum.lv, closed Mon Oct-Apr), tracing both the brief Nazi occupation and the decades of Soviet rule.
The view of the old town from across the Daugava River is spectacular and the Dome Cathedral (Doma laukums, closed during services), with its soaring spires, is the largest church in the Baltics, dating back seven centuries. Try and catch one of the frequent organ recitals. St Peter’s (Skarnu 19, 722 9426, closed Mon) is another beautiful church whose spire punctuates the skyline. It dates from 1209 and its wooden tower was once the highest in Europe. The observation platform is perfect for panoramic views out over Riga, taking in the dramatic sweep of the river to the Baltic Sea.
There is, however, a lot more to Riga than the medieval old town. The main thoroughfare of Brivibas iela crosses Riga’s string of parks and the city canal before reaching the Freedom Monument, the symbol of Latvian nationalism. The surrounding area also contains gloriously preserved Jugendstil architecture; it’s the finest in Europe, particularly along Elizabetes and Alberta iela, north of the old town. For a vestige of Soviet life, visit the Centraltirgus (Central Market, Pragas 1, 8am-6pm), a gigantic market south-east of the old town, housed in giant former zeppelin hangars.
• Tourist information: RTKIC (Ratslaukums 6, 703 7900, www.rigatourism.com).
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