Heavy pork and potato dishes may be a traditional feature of Latvian cooking but Riga’s dining options are increasing fast and a meal for two will rarely set you back more than Ls25. If you want to sample a range of national dishes, then head to Lido Atputas Centrs (Krasta 76, 750 4420, www.ac.lido.lv), a huge, buffet-like arrangement that is always busy. North-east of the old town, the beer hall maze of Staburags (Caka 55, 729 9787) houses a restaurant serving affordable Latvian cuisine, as does the excellent-value Vermanitis (Elizabetes 65, 728 6289), with its lovely park views. In the old town itself, Kiploku Kroga, ‘the Garlic Pub’ (Jekaba 3-5, 721 1451) is popular with Riga’s twentysomethings and, as the name suggests, almost every dish is prepared with garlic, including the ice-cream. Good international menus are available at Palete (Gleznotaju 12/14, 721 6037), which specialises in seafood, and Lotoss (Skanu 7, 721 2665), a fine option for vegetarians.

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