Rome

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Restaurants and bars

With their strong culinary traditions and almost religious dedication to the ritual of the morning coffee in the bar sotto casa (downstairs), Romans long resisted modernisation, for the simple reason that they didn‘t see how it could possibly improve their lot. When the extremes of trendiness arrived, they were a flash in the pan. What Rome now does best is good quality and warm surroundings… but at prices which, since the arrival of the euro, now outstrip many other European capitals.

 

Prices and tipping
Places that add service to the bill as a fixed item are still in the minority, so it’s usually safe to assume it isn’t included. A good rule of thumb is to leave around five per cent in a pizzeria or humble trat, and around ten in upmarket places. If service has been slack or rude, feel justified in leaving nothing – and check the bill, as the occasional restaurateur becomes strangely innumerate when dealing with tourists. Most restaurants accept credit cards (carte di credito). However, if there is no sticker on the door, ask.

 

In this guide, we have used the € symbol to indicate price ranges. € means an extraordinarily cheap meal at €15 or less; €€ is used for anything up to €30; €€€ for up to €45; €€€€ for over €45. These prices cover a three-course meal for one, without wine.

 

Children, women and etiquette
Taking children into restaurants – even the smartest – is never a problem in Rome. Waiters will usually produce a high chair (un seggiolone), and most kitchens will keep kids happy with pasta al pomodoro (with tomato sauce) or pasta in bianco (plain, to be dressed with oil or butter and parmesan). Note that, as a rule, pizzerias are your only option before 8pm.

 

Though attitudes are changing, women dining alone may still occasionally attract unwelcome attention – most of it in the form of frank stares.

 

Single diners of either sex can have trouble getting a table in cheaper places at busy times: few proprietors want to waste a table that could hold at least four diners.

 

Some restaurants now ban mobile phones. Smoking is illegal in all restaurants, except those with special smoking areas; these are rare. Getting a table at weekends becomes ever more difficult: it’s always a good idea to book.

 

Pizza
Pizza romana is thin crusted, pizza napoletana fluffier. Both are found here but, either way, make sure it comes from a wood-fired brick oven (forno a legna); pizzas from electric ovens just don’t have the same flavour. Pizza toppings are usually strictly orthodox. Where they depart from the norm, it’s in the name of quality rather than exoticism: don’t expect pineapple. Note also that pizza is an evening thing: very few places serve it at lunchtime.

 

Snacks
Roman snack culture lurks in unlikely places. Any humble alimentari (grocer’s) will put your selection from the deli counter inside the ubiquitous white Roman roll, la rosetta, or a slice of pizza bianca (plain oiled and salted pizza base), eaten as is or filled. Bars are another good bet for sandwiches and rolls.

 

Vegetarian
The city has few bona fide vegetarian restaurants; but, even in traditional trattorias, waiters will no longer look blank when you say non mangio la carne (‘I don’t eat meat’). Many Roman dishes, from penne all’arrabbiata (pasta in a tomato and chilli sauce) to tonnarelli cacio e pepe (thick spaghetti with crumbly sheep’s cheese and black pepper) to carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes), are meat-free.

 

Wine bars
Neighbourhood enoteche (wine shops) and vini e olii (wine and oil) outlets have been around in Rome since time immemorial. Recently a number of upmarket wine bars have also sprung up (see below), offering snacks and even full meals to go with their wines.

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