Rome

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L’Arcangelo

Elegant L’Arcangelo has wood panelling below tobacco-sponged walls, linen tablecloths and a soft jazz soundtrack. But it’s what’s on the plate that really impresses. A tartlet of octopus and potato with olive oil is simple but delicious, and fresh pasta chitarrini with marinated anchovies and fried artichokes a worthy follow-up. Secondi, such as steamed baccalà (cod) with puréed broccoli and warm ricotta with cocoa beans, are clever variations on the Roman tradition. The wine list includes some real discoveries from small-scale Italian producers.

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