Notwithstanding the constant tourist traffic, Santa Cruz is still has a buzz, and is great for a tapas-and-sherry crawl. Also closest to the main sights, and ideal for boozing, socialising and just hanging around, is the Plaza Alfalfa, with dozens of busy bars and small discos. Cooler andaluces head west to the Alameda de Hercules to drink long and late at the Habanilla Café (Alameda de Hercules 63, 954 902 718) and the Café Central, just opposite.

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