Thank Díos for tapas – it means you never have to choose but can have it all, sublime gazpacho, tortilla, ham, olives, shrimps, salt cod, peppery cheeses and even soup. There are photogenic tapas bars all over the Barrio Santa Cruz and Plaza Alfalfa and many are older than major countries – try Horno de San Buenaventura (Avenida de la Constitución 16, 954 221 819), established 1385, and El Rinconcillo (C/Gerona 40, 954 223 183), a 1670 johnny-come-lately. If you want something classy join the office workers snacking on the seafood, artichoke and paté dishes at La Leyenda (C/Reyes Católicos 4, 954 228 900) in the Hotel Becquer. For a major sit-down meal, go for high-end La Albahaca (Plaza Santa Cruz 12, 954 220 714) or a heartier dinner at bull-themed Las Piletas (C/Marqués de Paradas 28, 954 220 404). A great spot for alfresco eating is along the Triana side of the Guadalquivir.

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