Introduction |  |
The year 1348 was a bad year for Siena. The Black Death killed more than two thirds of the town’s population. The plague also stopped Siena’s economic expansion dead, leaving behind a perfect medieval town; its apparent confusion of streets and alleys conceal the overall unity of a town that is also a work of art. This is an ideal place to lose yourself – just turn down any back street or disappear through an archway and you’ll stumble upon wonders. Recognising this, UNESCO simply declared the whole historic centre a World Heritage Site.
At the heart of the city is the Campo, a beautiful shell-shaped piazza fringed by a great many cafés. Here you’ll also find the striking Palazzo Pubblico (0577 41169), home of the Museo Civico. Among the important artworks on show are Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s vibrant secular frescoes depicting the Allegories of Good and Bad Government, and Simone Martini’s sublime Maestà. The Palazzo is dominated by the Torre del Mangia, which was Italy’s tallest tower when it was completed in 1348 at 335 feet. Fifteen visitors at a time are allowed to climb its 388 steps; panting tourists are rewarded with excellent views of the surrounding countryside.
The city’s Duomo (piazza del Duomo, 0577 283048) was consecrated in 1179 and building continued until the economic crisis triggered by the Black Death. The interior is an extraordinary sight. The walls are covered in black and white horizontal stripes – it’s like stepping inside a giant mint humbug. Treasures include a pulpit carved by Nicola Pisano around 1265 and the Piccolomini Library built in 1495 to celebrate the life of local boy, Pope Pius II. Opposite the Duomo is the Spedale di Santa Maria della Scala (piazza del Duomo, 0577 224811), an 11th-century pilgrims’ hospital that treated patients until the 1980s. A former ward, the Sala del Pellegrinaio, is covered with lively 15th-century frecoes depicting everyday life in the hospital.
If a visit to the Duomo makes you long for some tourist-free tranquillity take refuge in the Orto Botanico (via Mattioli 4, 0577 232871, closed Sat afternoon and Sun), which occupies some steeply sloping land between Porta Tufi and Porta San Marco. Otherwise you can head to the state archives to see the Museo delle Tavolette di Biccherna (via Banchi di Sotto 52, 0577 247145). It may sound dull, but the biccherne are really unique – decorated wooden ledger covers dating from 1257.
If you’re planning on seeing all the sights, visit the ticket office at the Museo Civico (0577 41169), which offers a combined ticket with Spedale Santa Maria della Scala.
• Tourist information: Centro Servizi Informazioni Turistiche Siena (APT), piazza del Campo 56 (0577 280551, www.terresiena.it).
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