There are bars and restaurants dotted all over the city, with concentrations around via del Porrione and via Pantaneto, and in the little streets around the Duomo and via di Città.

Typical dishes include pici (like thick, irregular spaghetti) and ribollita (bread, bean and vegetable soup). The tasting menus at Cane e Gatto (via Pagliaresi 6, 0577 287545, closed Thur) and Enzo (via Camollia 49, 0577 281277, closed Mon) can teach you everything you could ever wish to know about Tuscan and Sienese cooking. Nannini (via Banchi di Sopra 24, 0577 236009) is a popular spot for aperitifs, as well as coffee and pastries, while Enoteca I Terzi (via dei Termini 7, 0577 44329) serves light snacks and a good selection of local wine. Hosteria Il Carroccio (via del Casato di Sotto 32, 0577 41165, closed Wed) is a real find, while Il Grattacielo (via dei Pontani 8, 0577 289326, closed Sun) has great-value lunches. Nello (via del Porrione 28, 0577 289043, closed Thur) offers sophisticated dishes with plenty of options for vegetarians. Pizzeria di Nonno Mede (Camporegio 21, 0577 247966) has a wide choice of pizzas and great views of the Duomo, and Osteria La Chiacchera (costa di Sant’Antonio 4, 0577 280631, closed Tue) is a charming spot that majors in traditional Sienese recipes. Osteria Le Logge (via del Porrione 33, 0577 48013, closed Sun) is a popular and conveniently central osteria with good food and a charming setting.

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