The focus of the city falls on the adjoining hubs of the palm-lined Adriatic promenade, the Riva, and Diocletian’s Roman palace. This vast, rectangular complex fell into disuse in the sixth century, 300 years after its completion, and locals have been eking out a living in its manifold alcoves and alleyways ever since. Today its six-foot-thick walls hide any number of shops, bars and offices. Children play football under groaning washing lines, cats scamper into dark recesses and palpitating Dalmatian music blares from decrepit windowsills.

Wandering aimlessly around the palace is one of Split’s essential experiences. Four gates guard its main entrances: Golden, Silver, Iron and Bronze. The latter gives access, through the basement of Diocletian’s old Central Hall, to the Riva. Much is under permanent reconstruction and, thus, clad in scaffolding. Amid the chaos, two landmarks stand out: the courtyard of Peristil, a major crossing point and, beside it, the Katedral Sveti Duje. Once the site of Diocletian’s mausoleum, it was converted in the Middle Ages and, thanks to a 20th-century reconstruction, was given finely carved doors, a pulpit and a belltower offering a panoramic view of the palace. This layout merits further investigation – it was studied by 18th-century Scottish architect Robert Adam, and influenced later symmetrical Georgian designs in Bath, Bristol and London.

Beyond the Bronze Gate, locals stroll in their Sunday best and banter at terrace cafés along the Riva, now known as the – deep breath – Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. This is where the city socialises, dedicating lifetimes of afternoons to chit-chatting over coffee.

For something more erudite, visit Sculptor Ivan Mestrovic’s villa/gallery (Setaliste Ivana Mestrovica 46, 340 800, closed Mon), designed in the 1930s, and housing hundreds of his ecessionist-influenced works; nearby, the Kastelelt holds his renowned religious wood carvings. One ticket (5kn) covers entry to both. None of the other modest scattering of museums – archaeological, historical, maritime – warrants investigation without a specialised interest in the locality.

Many are happy to head for the easy pleasures of Bacvice, a short walk east of the bus station, with its modern leisure complex overlooking a modest city beach. Major hotels surround four storeys of sea-facing restaurants, bars and nightclubs.

• Tourist information: Peristil (345 606, www.visitsplit.com).