Head for Stureplan, with the glamorous Sturecompagniet (Sturegatan 4, 611 48 16, www.sturecompagniet.se), the smaller and more elitist Spy Bar (Birger Jarlsgatan 20, 54 50 76 55 www.thespybar.com), and the classy Berns Salonger (Berzelii Park, 56 63 20 22, www.berns.se) setting the tone. When it comes to clubbing on Södermalm, |it’s hard to beat classic jazz joint Mosebacke (Mosebacke Torg 3, 55 60 98 90, www.mosebacke.se). Most clubs have a dress code, an age minimum (usually over 20) and weekend queues.

A high density of bars is found on Södermalm, a formerly working- class area that attracts a young, price-sensitive crowd. Favourites include the unpretentious Folkhemmet (Renstiernas Gata 30, 640 55 95) and the chic Öst 100 (Östgötagatan 100, 55 69 76 70).

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