Outside the loop of the JR Yamanote Line there are a number of sights to explore. South-west of Shinjuku on the Keio Inokashira and Odakyu lines is Shimo-Kitazawa – a laid-back, bohemian enclave comparable to London’s Soho or Camden. As well as theatre, this area has become famous for its live houses – the dark, dynamic, box-like venues where Tokyo’s aspiring bands hone their skills. Nakano is best-known for its cheap shopping, and the sprawling empire of Mandarake is a must-see for fans of manga, anime and ‘cosplay’ (costume play). On the Chuo line, Asagaya has a well-founded reputation for jazz, and a jazz festival every October. In Ogikubo is Harukiya (1-4-6, Kami-Ogi, Suginami-ku, +81333914868, JR Ogikubo station North exit) one of Tokyo’s best-known ramen shops, and people travel from all over Japan to eat there.

Resplendent on the edge of Tokyo’s 23 wards, Kichijoji becomes a shopping Mecca when Shinjuku seems too far. Bars, restaurants, coffee shops and cinemas round out the whole but the most popular attraction here is Inokashira Park (1-18-31 Gotenyama, Musoshino-shi, +81422476900, Kichijoji station, park exit, then ten minute walk).

Around 40 minutes away by train from Tokyo’s Shibuya station is Yokohama, Japan’s second city. It has many notable historic sights, gardens, museums and views, plus a sense of feeling of space and ease (thanks to its coastal location) that Tokyo lacks. The Yokohama Convention & Visitors Bureau also has an excellent English-language website, at www.welcome.city.yokohama.jp/eng/tourism.

Elsewhere in the area is the Jindai Botanical Garden (5-31-10 Shindaiji Honsho, Chofu-shi, +81424832300, Kichijoji station), one of the oldest, and biggest, botanical gardens in Japan; and Tokyo Disney Resort (1-1 Maihama, Urayasu-shi, Chiba, +81456833333, www.tokyodisneyresort.co.jp, Maihama station): whatever your thoughts on the Disney machine, it’s virtually impossible not to have a great day out here.

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