There are department stores (departo) and malls aplenty in Tokyo but, happily, the Japanese and local governments have long been fiercely protective of local shopkeepers. The best way to approach Tokyo’s shopping experience is to wander around and go wherever takes your fancy. Ameyoko Plaza Food and Clothes Market (6-10-7 Ueno, Taito-ku, no phone, www.ameyoko.net, Ueno JR station, Shinobazu exit, or Okachimachi station, north exit) is actually on a maze of streets. Of the two markets, the Centre Mall specialises in souvenirs and clothes, the other market specialises in fresh food, especially fish. It’s open from 9am to 7pm daily.

Leading up to the entrance to the Sensoji temple is another maze of stalls and tiny shops known as Nakamise Dori (Asakusa, Taito-ku, no phone, Asakusa station, exits 1, 3, A4). It’s open 8am-8pm daily and sells Japanese souvenirs (some dating back to the Edo period) and traditional festival snacks.

Fans of manga and anime would do well to schlep down Nakano Broadway (Opposite north exit of Nakano station, +81333871610 / +81333887004, www.nakano-broadway.jp), while those after antique, second-hand and ‘recycle’ shops should head to Nishi-Ogikubo station, Suginami-ku (www.sugishoren.com/street/400.htm). Takeshita Dori (opposite Takeshita exit of Harajukustation, www.harajuku.jp/takeshita/index.html), in Harajuku, is the centre of teenage culture in Tokyo. Down this packed street can be found second-hand clothes and CD stores. Many more offbeat shops await in the tiny alleys that branch off the main street.

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