Although foie gras and cassoulet, along with the local Gaillac and Fronton wines, are local specialities, many Toulousain restaurants have a global outlook. Top of the range is Les Jardins de l’Opéra (1 place du Capitole, 05 61 23 07 76, closed Mon, Sun), in the Grand Hôtel. Creative modern dishes are served at 7 place St-Sernin (05 62 30 05 30), which overlooks the Basilique St-Sernin. Cosy Chez Emile (13 place St-Georges, 05 61 21 05 56) has the best cassoulet in town. Le Bruit qui Court (11 rue Jean Suau, 05 61 23 68 38) offers inexpensive platters of snails, scallops and carpaccio. A variety of cheap eats can be found along rue des Filatiers.

Toulouse’s bar scene is always lively, especially around place St-Pierre – try the brilliant Bar Basque at No.7 (05 61 21 55 64) or the terrace of La Couleur de la Culotte at No.14 (05 34 44 97 01) – and in the buzzing student area around place Arnaud Bernard.

Liquid Club (2 avenue d’Atlanta, 05 61 11 80 80, www.toulouseweb.com) is a new music bar and restaurant where traditional toulousain cooking clashes with house, electronica, hip hop and scratch until 2am (Sat) and 5am (Sun).

La Villa Garden (157 avenue de Lespinet, 05 62 17 38 80, www.villa-garden.com) is a gaudy, lively dance club (around ten minutes from the city centre) that stays open until the early hours of Saturday and Sunday morning. Le Frigo (2 rue des Trois-Journées, 05 61 21 75 25, www.le-frigo.com) also runs until dawn. Le Velane (3 place Montoulieu, 05 61 53 60 56) is more laid-back; and Le Mandala (23 rue des Ammidonniers, 05 61 21 10 05) is a favourite jazz venue.

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