Although it offers plenty of seafood, Trieste is better known for its simple, filling cuisine, similar to that of Slovenia: meaty broths, sausages and dumplings. Seafood dishes, such as scampi alla buzara and brodetto di pesce, are served in the same garlic, wine and tomato sauce you’ll find all down the Adriatic coast. Pork is popular, and gnocchi or polenta are the staple accompaniments. For fine dining, the Antica Trattoria Suban (via Comici 2D, 040 54368, closed Tue, Mon lunch and 2wks around Aug 15), an old suburban coaching inn, has the finest regional specialities and a lovely garden. As a curiosity, you could head out to via di Servola, south past the port, to find Al Brittania (No.100, 040 830 708, closed Wed), an old baker’s, where bread is still made in the traditional way, as is the selection of hearty regional specialities.

The most famous of the grand literary cafés, the Caffè degli Specchi (piazza dell’Unità d’Italia 7, 040 365 777), was founded in 1839, but the famous writers of the day preferred the San Marco (via Cesare Batisti 18, 040 363 538, closed Mon) and the Pirona (largo Barriera Vecchia 12, 040 636 046, closed Mon). For dining with a view, seek out Al Faro (Scala Sforzi 2, 040 410 092, closed Sun, Mon), on the road to Friuli a ten-minute taxi ride from town, which has a fabulous terrace beneath a lighthouse.

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