The Piedmont culinary tradition isn’t for the diet-conscious; egg-rich, fresh pasta dishes bathed in melted butter, risotto, rich meat stews cooked in robust local wines and a fabulous variety of cheese are guaranteed to pile on the pounds. And then there’s the chocolate. An evening out in Turin should begin with an aperitivo and ‘free’ snacks at one of the city-centre bars – try Caffè Elena (piazza Vittorio Veneto 5, 011 812 3341, closed Wed). For a traditional meal in homely surroundings, go to the Antiche Sere (via Cenischia 9, 011 385 4347, closed Sun), where the menu varies with the seasons; try the ‘paniscia’, a risotto from northern Piedmont. A delightful alternative, Con Calma (strada Comunale del Cartman 59, 011 898 0229, closed Mon) lies just under the basilica of Superga and has a lovely garden that is ideal for summer meals; be sure to leave room for the incredible chocolate fondue. The calm and elegant Al Garamond (via Pomba 14, 011 812 2781, closed Sun) offers a creative take on traditional Piedmont cuisine and is arguably one of the best restaurants in Turin.

The city is famous for its many cafés redolent with an air of bygone grandeur. Tiny but opulent Mulassano (piazza Castello 15, 011 547 990) is a symphony of coloured marble and mirrors. For outright charm, go to intimate Al Bicerin (piazza della Consolata 5, 011 436 9325, www.bicerin.it, closed Wed), a gem dating from 1763, while for OTT grandeur, there are the belle époque delights of Baratti & Milano (piazza Castello 29, 011 440 7138, closed Mon).

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