Introduction |  |
It may not be finished but futuristic leisure complex the City of Arts and Sciences has already done for Valencia what the Olympics did for Barcelona and the Guggenheim for Bilbao. Which is to say that it has been the major catalyst in the city’s recent rise from backwater to boomtown. The soaring white complex acts as a space-age counterpoint to Valencia’s historic old town and neatly fills the geographical gap between the city centre and the nearby beach, Playa de Malvarrosa.
Set on the south-east bank of the dried-up Turia (the river that bisects the city), the City of Arts and Sciences, or CAC (Avenida Autopista del Saler 1, 902 100 031, www.cac.es) is a perfect illustration of what can be achieved with civic foresight (not to mention substantial financial investment) and the talents of a visionary architect, in this case local Santiago Calatrava.
Within the ‘City’ is L’Hemisfèric (a planetarium, IMAX cinema and laser dome), a vast science museum, the L’Umbracle botanical garden, L’Oceanogràfic marine park and, opening to the public in October 2006, the Palau de les Arts opera house. In short, the CAC combines education and entertainment in an architectural wonderland.
As the CAC was being built, the city also invested in a new metro network; commissioned Calatrava to construct a sweeping bridge over one of its stations; replanted gardens and installed playgrounds along the Turia riverbed; and welcomed a number of major international arts projects. The current focus of the cement mixers is the rather rundown port area, which is being regenerated as the city gears up for the Americas Cup (23 June- 7 July 2007, www.americascup.com).
However, you could quite easily walk around the hassle-free grand centre of Valencia and not notice that any of the above was happening. Stroll downtown from the beautiful modernista Mercado Central (Plaza del Mercado 6, 963 829 101, www.mercadocentralvalencia.es) to find the 15th-century Gothic La Lonja merchants’ exchange, two giant stone portals from the ancient city walls, the elaborate baroque Palacio del Marqués de Dos Aguas (housing the National Ceramic Museum, C/Poeta Querol 2, 963 516 392, closed Mon) and the city’s cathedral (Plaza de la Reina, 963 918 127). The latter was founded in the 13th century and subsequently constructed in a variety of architectural styles; it contains a chalice that some believe was used by Christ at the Last Supper. The cathedral adjoins the Miguelete, a tower offering panoramic views.
Central to any cultural visit are the IVAM (C/Guillem de Castro 118, 963 863 000, www.ivam.es), one of Spain’s foremost museums of modern art, and the Museo de Bellas Artes San Pio V (C/San Pio V 9, 963 605 793, closed Mon), with its Goyas and El Grecos.
• Tourist information: Plaza de la Reina 19, 963 153 931, www.turisvalencia.es.
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