Grown in the paddy fields south of the city, rice dominates Valencian menus. The huge variety of dishes goes far beyond the famous paella (the local version is made with rabbit, chicken and snails rather than seafood). Try these and other traditional dishes, and get a real bargain, at one of the stalls lining the Mercado Central (see above). For top-notch seafood, fight with the locals for a table at Canyar (C/Segorbe 5, 963 418 082) or swanky Civera (C/Lerida 11, 963 475 917, closed Sun night, Mon, August). Valencia also has a slew of fashionable fusion restaurants; three of the best are El Angel Azul (C/Conde Altea 33, 963 745 656, www.angelazul.com), El Foro (C/Ballesters, 3, 963 521 010) and Ca’ Sento (C/Méndez Núñez 17, 963 301 775).

Main nightlife hubs are along Paseo de Neptuno by the beach, or around C/Caballeros in the Barrio del Carmen. Trendier is Plaza del Carmen in bars such as Xino Xano (C/Alta 28, mobile 654 700 058), Susan Witch (C/Roteros 9, no phone) or Records de l’Avenir (C/Roteros 14, 963 920 137).

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